I Surivived the Nagano Sake Messe!

The Nagano Sake Messe is one of my favorite tasting events every year, although it can also be the most taxing. Between the 600 sake and the seemingly thousands of tasters, it’s a bit of sensory overload. Still, I always have a great time. One of the most striking things is how friendly and approachable the Nagano brewers are.


Entrance to the event costs a mere Y2000, but with the downloadable coupon, you only have to pay Y1500. This year, though, there was another special discount that allowed people dressed in traditional Japanese gear to get in for Y1000. I’d thought it was a novel idea, but I didn’t really expect to see anyone go through with it. However, a surprising number of people - both men and women – turned out in yukata or kimono.

“You should do that next year,” JP suggested.

“Oh, no. I couldn’t.”

“Why not?”

“It would diminish my credibility.”

Laughter.

“Well,” I crossed my arms tightly across my chest. “It’s difficult to spit in a kimono, at any rate.”


There was a lot of good sake this year. Because I’d managed to stay for roughly hours, I was able to taste a fair amount of it. At this tasting, too, I thought the sake was lighter overall. There were prominent herbaceous notes and noticeable astringency in much of the Miyama Nishiki sake that I tried (last year, I picked up on more bitter notes and the sake had a softer quality). I also saw more sake made with Hitogokochi.

There are really too many good ones to list, but here are just a few of the sakes that I enjoyed.

Sakunohana Junmai Ginjo Nama Natsu-gentei – full, rounded impact, smooth but light texture. Made with yeast #18.

Takashige Karakuchi Nama Genshu Aged Yamahai. - What can I say? This was so up my alley, a real mouthful, with chewy sweetness and an oily texture.

Takashige Miyamanishiki Kimoto – Whoops, didn’t note the grade, but this baby was super-rich, packed with generous butterscotch flavors.

Mizuo Junmai Ginjo – peppery, woodsy, with bitter notes in the finish. Nice and dry.

Kawanakajima Maruboshi Mai Miyama Nishiki Ginjo – This had good range. It was dry overall, but with a bright, acidic attack (and I must use the word attack here) and juicy bubble-fruit (don’t ask) on the palate, with soft bitterness in the finish.

I was also really impressed by several products from Matsuo.


Matsuo White Label Junmai-shu had a quiet nose and billowing umami, with hints of salted banana taffy on the palate. The Shinanodaichi Tokubetsu Junmai-shu was rich and savory, with mellow flavors of bamboo. The Matsubotan Junmai Daiginjo was packed with sweet-edged umami richness that ended in a clean finish. I also tried it slightly warmed, and it was terrific. All of these were made with 100% Miyama Nishiki and aged in the bottle.

You’ll have to excuse me. For some inexplicable reason, I’m in a Pollyanna-Sunshine good mood today. Will be back with more biting sarcasm next week, but til then, happy drinking!