Shinshu on my Mind

What a week! I've been plodding through a steady stream of deadlines this month, and my brain is constantly churning. I feel like I've hardly had a moment to relax. Such is the plight of modern life, especially if you live in a big city like Tokyo and have an internet connection.

Moreover, I've finally succumbed to Twitter, which has opened up new and exciting avenues for procrastination.

That said, I'd promised to let you know some of my top picks from last week's Shinshu festival, so here goes.

Denshu Kononishi Junmai Daiginjo - a wine-like, fragrant bouquet followed by chewy lactic notes and firm acidity on the palate. I could see this pairing well with a number of dishes.

Nambu Bijin Miyama Nishiki Junmai Ginjo - lively, with flavors of red licorice and a touch of mineral gravitas in the finish.

Kariho Junmai Ginjo - made with yeast #15, really juicy impact and light texture with smoky, ricey flavors.

Eikofuji Junmai Ginjo Shinken - grainy texture, but dry and clean, with some soft bitter noted in the finish.

Kudoki Jozu Junmai Daiginjo Super - made with Kairyo Shinko rice, smooth, rolling, soft and complex, very fruity. True to Kudoki Jozu's style.

Dewazakura Yukimanman Daiginjo Daikoshu - aged five years, this daiginjo was round and deep, with well-integrated bitteress in the background. The closest sake can come to being avuncular.

Suehiro Gensai Daiginjo - Solid impact, richly layered midpalate and a surprisingly sweet finish.

Suehiro Mai Daiginjo - made with kyonohana rice, good depth, mellow with a touch of honey. I heard this sake is a perennial favorite among the ladies, and I can see why. Actually, I really liked the entire Suehiro line-up this year. The president told me that their Ken Daiginjo was served at a Grammy afterparty.

Azuma Rikishi also caught my attention, and I quite liked their Jumai Daiginjo Nakadori Muroka Nama Genshu. Made with gohyakumangoku rice, it had a generous midpalate with hints of marshmallow surrounding a fruity center, but it still managed to be dry overall. Their aged Uroko was also great, very broad and complex.

Yukidoke Junmai Ginjo aged Genshu was juicy juicy and very likable.

Homare Kirin Junmai Daiginjo Choutanrei - as expected, dry as a bone, but with a toasted rice flavors imparting richness.

Taiyozakuri Daiginjo - really surprising, a complex mix of tropical fruits on the nose; peppermint, fruit, and ricey notes on the palate; and light, dry texture followed by a soft finish.

Fukucho Junmai Daiginjo Nakagumi Yamada Nishiki - an opening salvo of fruity exuberance. Melon, Japanese pear, and hints of stone fruits laced with smoky nuance and a mild sweetness.

Tenzan Hotarugawa Daiginjo - elegant and complex, with a smooth, light texture and nice depth.

If I'd had the chance to get through all of the sake that day, I'm sure this list would be longer. Now that that's out of the way, though, I can turn my attention to the Nagano sake messe today - with 600 sakes to sample, I'll need every ounce of concentration I can muster.

On another note, my new sake friend Greg took leave of us to make his life as a kurabito up in Nagano. It's such a bold move. Then again, I suppose it won't be a huge leap from microbiology. Best of luck, Greg!