New Zealand Wines Take Tokyo by Storm

Here in Japan, New Zealand wine has become synonymous with vivacious, fruit-driven Sauvignon Blanc. As such, I’d expected to see armies of these wines at last week’s New Zealand wine fair. They were there, all right, standing at full, crisp attention, but I was pleasantly surprised to find, scattered among the troops, a large number of wines made from Pinot Gris and other varieties. After talking to winery representatives, I learned that more and more producers are expanding their portfolios beyond the ubiquitous Sauvignon Blanc grape.

Around the world, Pinot Gris still enjoys less popularity than Pinot Grigio, its lighter, more acidic Italian incarnation. We don’t come across it that often in Tokyo, although I suspect it would be received quite favorably here. The dominant style in New Zealand is smooth-textured and off-dry, with a neat thread of acidity running throughout. I have to confess that, after sampling around 20 very pungent Sauvignon
Blancs from Marlborough – all with intense, vibrant grapefruit on the nose and passion fruit on the palate laced with searing acidity – I was grateful to encounter some of that soothing Pinot Gris.

Riesling and Gewurztraminer also made strong showings. Many of the Rieslings demonstrated abundant floral aromas and bold white grape (think Welch’s) and Muscat flavors. The Gewurztraminers brimmed with roses and spice, but I was pleased to note that several seemed actually quite drinkable, being neither overly sweet nor flabby.

There were lots of great whites, far too many to list, but here are a few of the ones that grabbed my attention.


Misha’s Vineyard “The Gallery” Gewurztraminer ’08 – delicate floral aromas followed by rose petals and a trace of mineral on the palate, full impact but light texture with good balance and a slightly sweet finish. Gentle.

Anthem Pinot Gris Central Otago ’07 – smooth, with just a touch of honey sweetness. Mannerly, but in a good way.

Waimea Pinot Gris ’08 – hints of pear, nice body, with a rolling sweetness toward the finish.

Peregrine Pinot Gris Central Otago ’08 – striking pear flavors backed by refreshing acidity. Light and lovely.

Tinpot Hut Pinot Gris Marlborough ’08 – subtle, with hints of apple, pear, and baked treats.

Staete Landt Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough ’07 – smoky, Poully-Fume-esque mineral undertones, with nice balance.

Pegasus Bay Sauvignon Blanc/Semillion Waipara ’08 – intriguing, musky and earthy aromas give way to bright fruit and lively acidity. Pleasant weight and mouthfeel.

Of course, it would be unfair not to mention the red wines. Lush Pinot Noir is one of New Zealand’s great gifts to the world, but I also discovered some outstanding Cabernet blends and Syrahs.

Ata Rangi Pinot Noir Marlborough ’06 – sprightly, almost spritzy impact with firm acidity and light body. Noticeable tannins and a touch of leather in the finish. Serious but far from fusty.

Schubert Block B Pinot Noir Wairarapa ’07 – fruity and round, but surprisingly dry with supple structure.

Gladstone Pinot Noir Wairarapa ’06 – Fruit-forward and fleshy with soft tannins and good acidity.

Misha’s Vineyard “The Audition” Pinot Noir ’07 – unfiltered, playful and fruity, with new oak nuance, exotic scents of sandalwood and spice.

Temata Coleraine Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot Hawke’s Bay ’06 and ’07 – both really delicious, the Cab-based one tastes like Christmas, while the Merlot-based one shows terrific hints of cedar.


Man O’War Syrah Waiheke Island ’08 – one of my favorites all day, the kind of wine you’d kiss on the first date. Solid tannic bones with lots of muscle and smoky depth. A touch of Viognier gives it that extra-special something. It’s mighty-mighty.


The turnout at this event was fantastic. I had a lot of fun, although evidently not as much as the woman beside me at the Jeroboam booth.

“Subarashii!” she squealed, pointing to a bottle of Craggy Range Pinot Noir.

She was flushed and her eyes bounced excitedly behind her glasses.

“Are you with the press?” she asked.

“Um, sort of,” I smiled.

“Which of these do you like?”

“This one’s not bad,” I nodded in the direction of Dog Point.

“Sure, but this one is…is…” she shook her head and waved her hands, “subarashii!”

“Oh, yes,” I smiled, holding out my glass for a taste, “I’ve had that before and it’s very nice.”

The rep eyed me warily and poured a miserly centimeter of wine into my glass.

“But I’m not drunk!” I wanted to protest. “I don’t even know that lady!”

Instead, I moved on. Moments later, at the Clos Henri booth, I felt a hand on my shoulder.

“Kore mo subarashii!”

That was my cue to leave. But I’ll be looking forward to sampling more great New Zealand wines next year!